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The story behind the casual suit jacket for men or the blazer, is quite unclear. The garment we are wearing today is actually the descendant of two distinct styles of suit jackets: the British military double breasted model and the sports coat worn in boats by rowers at Oxford University. One thing is certain: the blazer has served men for more than 100 years, being worn by both kings, athletes, social elite, and common people.
The blazer is by definition an incredibly versatile item, an essential element for the urban man whose outfit is characterized by a casual smart style. Wearing a blazer, a man will never be too elegant or too casual, bringing the exact dose of refinement required.
Although it is very easy to match if we take into consideration the color and texture of the fabrics, it is not as easy to choose a blazer that suits us perfectly. That's why Antonio Gatti has created a list of elements and details that really make the difference when you want to buy a top-quality blazer.
The blazer buttons
Buttons and buttonholes are the marks of well-tailored clothes. Often overlooked, these can be true clues about how the blazer was designed. When made by a specialist, buttonholes have the perfect size, they are carefully sewn and will not lose over time. Buttons need to be customized with the brand name, made of solid material and sewn very well with durable textile yarn.
A well-cut blazer also features an extra buttonhole on the top of the left lapel to be easily decorated with a lapel pin.
The stitches should be straight, dense and well-finished, not interrupted and made of high-quality textile yarns.
How should a blazer fit?
The most important thing in choosing a blazer is to follow the body line as best as possible, without limiting its freedom of movement. To ensure this aspect, you should consider the following:
Closing: When standing, the blazer must be easily fastened. To test this, you can only close one of the buttons to ensure that by joining both lapels, the blazer is not too wide or too tight. The buttonhole needs to close easily and not make X-shaped creases.
The collar: should stick to your shirt, even when you move your head.
If you see a split, then the blazer is too big, and if it gets creased,it means it's too small.
The fabric should be made of natural fibers: either with high wool or 100% cotton content. For the cold season, the recommended material is the tweed that offers a high thermal comfort and a stilish look to the entire outfit and when the temperatures are higher, we can opt for a casual jacket made of a lighter composition.
The blazer shoulders: should not overcome the natural line of the body in order not to create an uneven look, but also they should not to be too short and form those well-known unsightly creases.
The sleeves: the specialists recommend that the length difference between the jacket and the shirt should not be very high. It is advisable to leave half inch (approx. 1.27 cm) of the length of the shirt. It is not always easy to calculate this, but we can be guided by a generally valid rule that must be respected, namely that the sleeve of the blazer should not shorter than the cuff of the shirt.
If the blazer has passed all these tests thoroughly, you can be sure that you have made the ideal purchase for your wardrobe, enriching it with one of the most versatile pieces of men's clothing.